1) Re-sealing and re-riveting the portholes The original aluminium rivets were breaking off and the port hole frames were springing out causing leaks. The last sail in heavy weather and some heavy rains recently provided the motivation (chart soaked twice!). The starboard cabin porthole had lost over 50% of its rivets and was nearly ready to pop out for good. The port sides 2 portholes had about a 30% rivet failure rate.
So drilled the bad old rivets out, and enlarged the holes a little, scraped old silicone etc out, applied new silicone and put the new slightly larger diameter aluminium rivets in. I left the original white rubber sealant tape under the window flanges. The black inner rubber strip of the forward port porthole was a bit aged, some shrinkage etc causing pull away from corners, so pulled it out and rebedded it..the 1" ends gap (due to shortening) was filled with silicone sealant. All rivet heads-holes were also silicone sealed too.
starboard |
port side |
black inner rubber strip |
rivet tool |
2) The sloppy tiller to rudder join - Glued a wooded block onto the tiller side. Next day planned the block down to fit the rudder stock head socket. No more tiller slop.
clamped block |
tiller fitting |
3) Engine department
The outboard had some running problems last trip - probably the most critical item on the boat.
Replaced 2 spark plugs and oiled greased all external moving bits around the top of outboard.
Engine test went well. Really don't want to get stranded out there in a calm (or storm).
Engine test stand - trampoline frame and paver |
4) Mast crutch (shear legs). Made from 2nd hand 12x50mm (1.2x2") hardwood planks about 6 ft long with a pivot bolt allowing scissor-action for stowage. This frame holds the lowered mast up giving standing headroom in the cockpit. Good for river with low bridge motoring (rudder remains in operation). The shade/rain awning can also be added to create a cool/dry cockpit area. Rounded off some sharp corners with the surform plane and sanded it down. It's a prototype in progress.
The design problems with it at this stage -
It can't be used as a mast-raising aid (would fall over)
The cockpit locker hatches can't fully open, they hit on the wood frame..
It's too heavy - lighter material better.
5) Short-link anchor chain - Bought 18m of 6mm short-link galvanized chain at Bullivants, Townsville, they are a construction-rigging supply company. ($5/m) It is rated to 400kg safe working load (but can take at least twice that). Plus two 6mm bow shackles rated to 500kg SWL . Fit the new chain between the 7m of 6mm long link chain and the 12mm rope warp to give Teria a total of 25m of chain. With 100% chain between anchor and sampson post there's almost no chance of it chafing through during the night. Plan is to use it in shallow anchorages, especially the nearby islands. Peace of mind when leaving the boat alone or sleeping aboard. Just hope it's not too much weight up high in the bow, or weight to haul up by hand.
Short-link seems to handle and stow easier too.
short link chain and rope warp |
long link chain and 10 lb anchor on deck (all fits in locker) |
6) Stern light - The old white stern navigation light was cracking, leaking, gaffer-taped up and very unreliable, it often went off when needed at night. Thought about buying a new LED one but ended up replacing the old stern light with an unused stern light that i had laying around. It was a 10amp old bulb style but this one is still in top condition and is reliable.
Andrew, Great price for the chain!
ReplyDeleteI too own an i563 (Whitsundays voyage planned for Sep), do you think the 10lb CQR is big enough? Does it fit in the anchor well with all that chain?
Cheers
Sean
Gday Sean, it's possibly a bit heavier than needed but always better safe than sorry. The anchor just fits in over the chain if the anchor shank is pushed up under the deck first. I dont have a hatch on the anchor locker, just ties it down with rope. It would not fit if i had a hatch there.
DeleteHope the Whitsunday's plan comes to fruition
atb Andrew