Tall ship "Defender"

I first saw the Defender a couple of years ago when she was moored in Ross creek next to Townsville's Museum of Tropical Queensland.

It's rakish masts, rounded stern and classical deck layout and rig were designed and built during the peak of the age of commercial sail, sometime in the 1890's. She had sailed thousands of miles north along the east coast of Australia, from her home port of  Launceston, Tasmania.

Defender moored alongside the Tropical Museum in Townsville, 2014

A genuine classic gaff ketch rigged wooden trading vessel, the hull over 100 foot long, It is the last ship of it's heritage and lineage remaining in Australia.

Defender sailing in the WhitSunday's, about a decade ago

She  still seemed in reasonable shape in 2015, though mothballed with the sails and some running rigging etc removed to keep them out of the sun and in need of a paint. It did look like she was slowly deteriorating in the harsh tropical sun. I read that she was chartered in the WhitSundays for some years previously but had an engine room fire, so had been in Townsville harbour for about 6 years,

Then one night in early 2016 "Defender" sank at the mooring.

Defender shortly after sinking

Here is one of ABC news stories about the sinking and possible Resurrection of Defender. 
But there has been a lengthy legal case about who actually owns her and who is responsible for salvaging, which kept her on the bottom of the harbour.

Last week, after 11 months on the bottom,  Defender was re-floated from is watery grave by a professional dive salvage team backed with government funding.

Salvage experts built a steel frame around hull and lifted with airbags, then pumps.

She was hauled out on a slipway, a safer location should a cyclone hit this season. Nearly a years worth of marine growth, mud and harbour gunk covered everything. I'm guessing that a marine survey will be carried out.

 What caused the sinking? Perhaps a corroded sea-cock, a faulty bilge pump system,   teredo worms  or a sprung plank? Vandalism was quoted as the cause of the sinking, one observer noted that allot of bilge pumping was happening while moored at the museum. Did the vandals disable the pumps?

This turns out to be the last time i saw "Defender" in 2016

2017 - I took a look at the slipway and Defender's hull was gone. Turns out she has been quietly dismantled. Some salvaged parts are to be restored and displayed in the Townsville Maritime Museum.

There was almost no media coverage of her final death knell. Only a couple of articles found eg - Sunk Defender Dismantled by Queensland Government. A slow sad end to a once fine tall ship.


R.I.P. "Defender" - The last of the Bass Straight ketches.

Fitting aft access hatch to a Fatty Knees

Specifications of the access hatch i bought.

Outside frame - 280 x 381mm (approx 11" x 15").
Inside hole - 180 x 278mm (approx 7'' x 11")

I measured the thwart width and bought a plastic rectangular access hatch with fastenings. However it took another month to build up enough courage to cut a huge hole in the seat top.  On the net I had seen one story of this job being done to a fatty knees "Gadget Redo" . In this case the storage locker created was used to house a battery etc for an auto-bilge pump. Also the foam flotation inside the seat had to be removed.

The hatch was positioned on the centerline of the dinghy and double checked from every angle. The old carpenters adage "measure twice cut once" was increased about five fold. It was to be an almost irreversible step once completed.

A paper hatch template was cut out, taped in position and the outlines marked onto the seat with pencil.

A drill with a 10mm bit was used to make the first exploratory hole, no internal foam was visible at this point, it looked like an empty void in there. The hole was to start the jig saw blade, the 2mm fibreglass cut through easily like a hot knife through butter. More holes helped get around the difficult shapes in the hinge area.

The interior of the sealed bouyancy tank was finally revealed, it was as pristine as the day it was built, perhaps 40-50 years ago. About 2" of salt water lay in the skeg/keel at the bottom, how it got in is anyone's guess but it was soon sponged out.

A wooden block to reinforce the rudder's lower gudgeon fitting was in perfect shape too..

A photo of the under side of the deck revealed a thick fiberglass rib about 1"-2"  forward of the transom. Fortunately my hatches cuts missed the rib (just), so structural strength was not compromised.

The edges of the hole were filed to the line and smoothed out. Then the hatch frame fit in pretty well. The fastening holes were drilled with a bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the hatches screw holes. Then they were widened to take the 2.5 mm diameter stainless steel bolts.

A bead of silicon sealant went around the frame before final bolt-on. Under-deck were washers and lock-nuts. Finally white plugs hid the bolt tops.

lock nuts and washers

Bolted down with plugs ready

Plugs hide the bolt tops. Flexible lunch box fits in.

Stowage 

A teflon cutting board made a good floorboard to cover the keel slot. (Spare 600ml water bottle stowed under, in the keel slot). The safety gear fit to one side (V-sheet, flares), spare stuff bag. The clamp on navigation lights stowed on the other side.  Room for 2nd waterbottle, flexible lunch box , 2 small gear bags and even a 10" hand line reel. Everything was easy to access in an easy to get at part of the dinghy while underway.

Safety gear and internal structure

Fishing reel fits in

navigation lights

The Hatch was an "Easterner"

Hatch specifications

Underside of hatch

Fatty Knees to Magnetic Island (Picnic bay) (Dinghy trip #38)

Jai Dee sail #38 saw good weather 10knot ne forecast so set off for Palleranda to launch at 2pm, a bit earlier than usual as i wanted to sail most of the afternoon.

Prior to this trip i'd taken Jai Dee out on Cleveland Bay several times, each trip confirming the seaworthiness and my confidence in the capabilities These trips saw me within about 1 nm of the Magnetic Island reef flat. In the right conditions it was ok to sail out this far. I always consulted my wind and tides forecasts on Willy weather before departure. In 10-15knots ne the Fatty Knees eats it up. If the forecast was over 15 knots then bay sailing is called off (protected waters river sailing ok upto 20knots)

Created an aft storage locker by fitting a rectangular plastic hatch with a sizeable opening. This was to keep high use items safe and dry and within easy reach. The prior stowage was a watertight bag on the aft thwart and the bow locker.

Positioning the hatch before cutting out access hole.

Other maintenance was to replace a broken boom saddle fitting to attach the mainsheet. The cracked wooden daggerboard was epoxy glued and painted with varnish and clear decking oil. Other exposed woodwork was linseed oiled.

The first leg out from Palleranda had a 5knot northerly wind. On course for Picnic bay through and area of confused north and east moving waves less than 1 foot. About a mile out the wind stopped awhile and backed to the EnE at 10 knots. The plan changed then so headed south on a close reach across Cleveland bay, with an idea of reaching the duckpond. As the coastal landmarks slipped abeam - Rowes Bay, the strand . JaiDee actually was standing well out offshore further than expected.

so crossed the ferry route off the port of Townsville. The Car ferry went by and tacked and was laying the southern tip of Magnetic Island. The seas were about 1-2 foot so eased sheets to keep speed up and ride over them without bashing about.

After an hour or so realised that Picnic Bay might be possible. The wind strength was ideal and from the right direction which would provide wind power all the way into Picnic Bay (if it is more northerly then a huge wind shadow occurs behind the Island..this had stymied me on previous attempts)

Magnetic Island to windward

About a mile out smooth waters with good breeze was happening, perfect for tacking up hard on the wind. Luckily the incoming tide didn't cause any adverse current here. Had to tack outside the Picnic Bay reef and up to a windward navigation beacon pole to find safe water with the daggerboard and fixed rudder down.



near the reef a green turtle popped up about 5m ahead, it was easy to see her whole shell and flippers in the clear waters.

Once inside Picnic Bay it was a nice run down to the wharf area. It was a Monday so only one 30 foot yacht was visiting the anchorage. The green mountains, palm trees and clean sands beaconed.

Final approach in the lee of the wharf to the boat ramp beach was under sweep oar with half board down. It felt good to finally reach the beach. I guess the good feeling is inversely proportional to how hard it was getting there! I take my hat off to the kayakers and swimmers who have also crossed the straight under their own power, dealing with the waves, winds, tides and currents on the way. 

picnic bay jetty

Had a yarn to a local who just happened to be into clinker dinghy's too. She just won a 10 foot wooden clinker dinghy in a raffle! It was built in Tasmania at a boat building school and was being shipped up north.  Picnic Bay would certainly be a fantastic place to sail such a fine dinghy

Picnic bay boat ramp beach

After a land walk to shake out the sea-legs a bit and get the circulation going, it was time to begin the return trip. The rig was raised, navigation lights were clamped on and the hatches sealed.

Preparing to depart

Sailed off downwind straight over the reef flat. Used the sweep-oar so draft was minimal. High tide was near so the was a few feet of water over the reef. Once clear the rudder made it alot easier to steer for Cape Palleranda.

At first the Island made for smooth waters, so it was time to open the lunch box and thermos.

Running downwind is always a good way to  return home. The waves are with you, it's far quieter and no sprays flying. However the boats still slipping along effortlessly at several knots due to much less drag with the board up.

An easy broad reach into the sunset back to Cape Palleranda

The first waypoint was middle reefs western (north west) navigation beacon.

After this the confused waves zone began but it was easier to ride through it downwind than going upwind.

The landmark for the ramp is a low saddle between two small hills to the left of the cape's big hill.

Soon it was dark, a new moon night, only starlight and city glow to see by.  Fortunately, there are plenty of guiding lights to steer by to find the ramp on a dark night. First, a fixed red light sits atop of the radar dome on the Cape. Then a hazard buoy white flashing light is seen about  a mile out. The ramp floodlights are to the left of this, not to be confused with much brighter beach floodlights for the stinger net area further to the left of the ramp.

Re navigation lights on a new moon night - the all round white stern light was blindingly bright which destroyed my night vision completely. So had to turn it off in order to see enough. (the forward green/red nav light was ok) Sometimes i used my red LED headlamp /and or LED (white torch) to see inside the boat. What the stern light needed was a cover to block light on it's forward side (which was done on return home, it will only be seen from astern)

Palleranda ramp

The approximate trip total distance sailed was 13 nautical miles (or 24 km) . Going over the Island upwind was 9 nm (17 km) sailed and the final leg was 4nm (7 km) sailed.

Map of the trip

The soft 12mm neoprene floor mat was almost essential for a long dinghy sail like this. It keeps you out of the bilge water and can be moved from side to side on each tack or to where required. It's about 60x60 cm area.

 The new aft hatch/ stowage locker worked well. A big relief as it was a virtually irreversible experiment. It was easy to open or dog down quickly. Gear that used to be up in the forward compartment with a 6" slow-action screw in inspection port was now stowed aft where it was much more easily accessible. Weight distribution was improved, the bow was much lighter so the boat rode the waves better and stayed drier. The dinghy is also more stable when accessing gear. (before when trying to get something out forward, body weight really made the hull nose-heavy/wet/less stable ).

 As the compartments are also buoyancy tanks for capsize, I only open the hatches one at a time in good conditions close inshore, they stay shut in strong winds or when further out. Full reserve buoyancy is needed to right the boat and be able bail it out.

Flares, remove unused fittings and bimini deck lugs - Teria

Bought some new hand-held distress flares. RFD "crewsaver" brand. The old ones were nearly out of date so the boats legal again. The water resistant plastic box contains 4 flares - 2 daytime smoke flares  and 2  night flares. They fit nicely into the shelf.

Day smoke (left) night flare (right)

Flare box - Just the right width

In Australia hand held stick flares like these are the only ones for the general public. (We can't buy flare guns) Hand held stick parachute flares are also used on offshore boats, but one of these costs about the same as a coastal/inshore 4 pack.

Removed some unused deck and cabin fittings. An old radio antennae base o the quarter deck, quite a few lone or ex-fitting screws. A few pad eyes. On the cabin top-  a swivel pulley, and a deck fair-lead. It reduces clutter, a simpler deck and cabin make for fewer things to go wrong.

Some old fasteners to remove.

Aerial mount removed

Bimini deck pad-eyes - these were fitted to the top of the cockpit coamings. Checked old photos of the bimini raised to get an estimated position, hope its correct. This should improve walking access from cockpit to side deck.

Bimini pad eye on coaming

Then there's small jobs like fasten a loose bunk fiddle, by adding a couple of washers to let the screw hold onto the wood.

It's amazing how many small jobs there are on even a small yacht. I made a list in my design book it filled a page, mostly things that will improve operation, comfort of safety.

A few more things to make 

Electrical wiring maintenance -Teria

The electrical wiring system was still a bit too messy, so with the new 25w flouro work light in hand i set to cleaning it up.

Starboard saloon shelf box - The conduit was hanging down badly..so fastened it to the side deck-head using a galvanised nail into the chainplate block with cable tie. and a stainless screw with wire tie at the aft end. 

There was some disused wires outside the conduit,, on close inspection they were attached to nothing at both ends..they must've been an old stereo sound system wires, so they were removed.

The aft end of the saloon box was further cleaned up by removing the 12v cigarette lighter socket and wires. It disconnected itself so had to solder the end back onto the fitting. then refitted it under the cockpit deck-head close to the cockpit side, with wires going inside the fuse box area. (so the new accessories re-charging area is on the bunk foot)

Saloon shelf box aft end clear for stowage. Grey conduit fixed to deck-head

The 12v outlet socket relocated. 

The wiring area is neater

Wiring bundle, bit more shelf space

The cabin lights - These are old 12v bulb ones,,the switches weren't working. After dismantling the lights , i rewired them correctly - the electric soldering-iron needed  So now both lights can be operated from the light rather than at the switchboard.

The old dome light switch working again

In the forepeak - with the stereo wires gone this left 2 sets of 2 wires..one had gone up through he deck and was probably the old mast light (now removed). (Thinking it would be easy to add an LED cabin light to the end of that pair.) Another red pair were live, and no idea what they were for or where their switch is. Flagged them with tape and tucked them up.

Forepeak shelf refit -Teria

Re-fitted the portside shelf box stowage in Teria's forepeak. It had been removed before i bought the boat, but the owner had kept the parts in his shed they came with the sale. The starboard shelf box proved very useful, the openings a bit wider than the main cabin shelves, so to double this stowage seemed good.

Investigators seem to have slightly different interior (and rigging) details and this cabinet work may have been either an optional extra for a new boat or. added by an early owner.

First up was to belt sand and coat the wood with varnish and decking oil while it was apart. It was a nice fine-grained lightweight wood (cedar or oregon?)  Loosely fitted the shelf box, then i noticed that the top of the vertical face board was about 1" below the deck, this was because the top 1" had been broken off by a sudden removal and was missing (perhaps someone grabbed it like a handrail in rough seas, it's certainly not designed to take this - the grain is longitudinal and the tops only 40-50mm wide)  ((If building a shelf-box from scratch i would use 6-8mm plywood and make wider top attachments about 100mm long, then it might stand up to handrail type use at times))

Made  4 extensions were needed. I had spare plywood so put the shelf box face back in place and measured the extensions heights, by holding them against deck-head and pencil marking each one.  then cut and planed them to fit in the gaps. Everything was removed from the boat back to the workshop and the extensions butt joins were glued on with "epiglue" a 2 part epoxy, which makes a very strong join (analagous to welding two bits of steel together) A surform and sanding block shaped them and a coat of deck oil sealed them.

Plywood extensions to the front face

Extension sanded down - epoxy glue fills wide gaps

Some 30mm aluminium angle tags were made up to help fasten it to the deck head. The front face basically hangs down from the deck head and holds the outer edge of the shelf box up.

On any boat cabinetwork should be easily removable, so all the hull is accessible. It takes a bit of pre-planning/design and the shelf was reassembled with this in mind. A look at the starboard one showed that this was not the case there and is probably the reason the port one was broken out.

I loosely fitted the shelf and front face, holding them together with light nails half in, and propped up with some items aboard. The position of angles and the shelf was marked with pencil on the deck head and bulkhead. (the inner side already had a glassed in cedar strip to hold it up)

Propped up while fitting the tags

The forepeak is regaining its symmetry!

With all removed the aluminium angle tags were drilled and stainless screws to fasten. The shelf-bow was refitted and fastened to the tags by drilling through and fastening with thin stainless bolts. Then the inner side held with 2 galv nails. Added a pair of angle tags stainless screwed under the front of both shelves at the front bulkhead to hold that up better.

Tag to hold shelf box up at anchor locker bulkhead. A glassed in batten holds the inner edge up.

Tags to hold the front face of shelf box to deck-head

My screw driver was a very short one with multiple head choices ($6 at bunnings). The short length makes all the difference on a small boat for cabinet work etc. easy to get it into the tight "corners" (and they are never square or straight ones either) ..A power drill driver could only be used occasionally. (A battery powered drill/driver is on the wish list.)

noticed the other shelf was not fastened on its inner edge, so a couple of galv nails fixed that. (I left the heads out by 1-2mm so they can be pulled out for quick disassembly.)

Shelf box finished , the GPS bag fits in nicely.

new tools for this work. The light enabled longer working hours into the night or just to see into dark corners.

240v flouro worklight with switch, clamp, hang hook and reflector cowl. $22

 The short driver was the only one i had which could get into the shelf box to fix the tags to the deck.

Short handled ratchet screwdriver set with many tip inserts. $7

 This solder iron fixed old connections in the wiring, (some of these were very small and you cant buy them nowdays)

240v soldering iron for wiring work with self fluxing wire