Monday, October 21, 2019

Trailer #17 - Rims and tyres

The trailer runs 13" Holden rims with 13" light truck radial tyres. The rims fit a 5-stud Holden hub.

Decided to replace the trailer wheels with new ones.  Bought new tyres pre-fitted to galvanized rims for boat trailer use. The rims are a multi-fit generic type that fit onto both Ford or HT Holden hubs. "NQ wheels and Castors" in Townsville sold them at a reasonable price.

The tyres are 165R13C 94/92Q radials with load capacity of 670 kg on a single axle, the same specifications as the old tyres. The rims are hot-dip galvanized so should stand up to years of  salt water use. Maximum tyre pressure stamped on the tyres is 65 psi.

So now have the two vintage rim tyres as spares. ( I lost my spare in the Feb 2019 surprise flood, it certainly was gone after that weather event. Left it laying on the ground but never expected it to float away, unprecedented stuff!)

I did look into the possibility of finding a second-hand original Holden trailer rims but these are hard to find and greatly sought after by vintage car collectors / restorers, so their price is comparable or costlier than getting the brand new aftermarket rims.

Old and new wheels.

New wheel







Saturday, October 19, 2019

Re-launching and shakedown (trip #15)

The 3 day shakedown cruise went well.

Launched at Barnicle st ramp, Railway Estate into Ross River. It was late afternoon and some strong wind was blowing onto ramp and the tide was ebbing out,

Old Barnicle st ramp
The boat still needed a bit of a mechanical nudge to get rolling off. Its done by driving up a few meters rolling back and slamming the brakes on. Once moving "Teria" slid in quickly.

It took awhile to learn the new motors starting and handling, got away into the river and drifted to set up the motor tilt angle.  The rudder/tiller was shipped and full boat handling control was happening.

(Thoughts: Next solo launch in similar weather, it would be worth trying the other ramps with center-line floating docks and steeper gradients. This might make the launch easier with no chance of being grounded, the rudder could be fitted and engine started while docked)

Did some test runs up and down Ross River. The GPS speed read 5.7 to 5.3 knots, about hull speed (with tide current factor) and it only needed around 1/3 throttle to get there. The Tohatsu Sailpro was very quiet, (when its idling in neutral and on the fore-deck, i cant hear it at all). The sailboat propeller really gripped the water, almost no slippage and minimal revs needed for a noticeable maneuvering effect.

Motoring at hull speed - 5.3 knots

Went out solo for the trip, and anchored overnight opposite the Recreational boat park. Shoal draft allowed going inside all the big moored cruisers, nearer to the mangroves (where all the old pile moorings used to be, the are now all removed by the port authority) Allot of fruit bats were chattering in their mangrove roost, before flying off for the night in search of food ashore. Not as many as before i remember, thousands were killed by heatstroke during an unprecedented heatwave last summer which was hotter and lasted far more days than ever before.

Next morning after breakfast, motored to past the low level bridge, anchored at the entrance sandbar and rigged up, raising the mast and sails.

Rigged and ready

A 20 knot Easterly seabreeze sprung up. Motored out on the outgoing tide. The tide against sea situation resulted in short sharp waves that stood right up. So reduced speed to about 3 knots boat-speed to make it comfortable and stop the spray flying too much. Had only the reefed mainsail up, set it and pointed up to keep the boats heel angle minimal for the 4-strokes oil pickup to work. The Tohatsu putted along quietly at about 1/4 throttle but steadily pushed "Teria" upwind into the quite gnarly sea conditions where the river met the sea. The Ultra long shaft placed the propeller way below sea level aft, so even strong hull pitching had no effect on it (ie Cavitation is a common problem for bracket mounted outboards)

A nasty rocky shore of the ports break-wall lay threateningly downwind to the port side, but kept going until it became safer once hundreds of meters sea room opened up before cutting the motor and unfurling the jib and sailing off  on a close reach away from the danger. Its nice knowing a trailer-sailers keel and centerboard slow the side drift rate down considerably. Safer than a powerboat drifting without a motor.

The miles ticked off as Teria heeled over in the increasingly strong wind the further offshore we got. Lashed the tiller so self-steered under sail and could catch a breath in the dry cabin.  Magnetic Island was well down to leeward and we were on course for NE point on Magnetic (route to Horseshoe Bay)

Townsville astern


Magnetic Island to leeward


Castle Hill and Cape Palleranda to leeward

The wind and sea increased whitecaps were everywhere (later saw 27 knots on weather app) and had too much sail up. But solo, with no harness it was too dangerous to change down the jib size, this involved hanging onto the foredeck, removing #1 jib and hanking on #2 jib, raising it and sailing again. It seemed a bit too risky, so decided to turn around and run for it. The jib was furled, then bore away downwind with only the reduced mainsail up. Running before it reduces the wind pressure on the rig, the boat stays upright and big waves are easier to handle. It was still pushing it though, had to watch out for broaching or crash-gybing.

The course took Teria towards Picnic Bay. Had to do a couple of gybes but in strong wind conditions its safer to do this by rounding up and put the bow through the eye of the wind (wind direction), instead of a normal gybe which turns the stern through the eye of the wind.

It soon became apparent that even Picnic Bay was no haven, the wind blew straight down to the wharf creating a dangerous lee shore. No vessels were anchored there as usual either. So gave that up, motored out upwind and hove-to outside, it was a bit less rough here than further offshore. Changed the jib from #1 to the smaller #2.

Finally had the right sail area set for a spirited reach across the wind towards Townsville!.

Quite a relief to make it back to "The Duck-pond".  It's Townsville's best open anchorage for yachts. Its close to "The Ville" casino (formerly Jupiter's)  and the "Breakwater Marina" which offers very secure berthing at a price.

"Duck pond" anchorage - Castle hill, Townsville.

Anchored upwind of the the other 30 or so deep keeled yachts in the shallow part of the Duck pond not far from the breakwater wall. Had a huge area to myself, another advantage of shallow draft. This Harbor is good for yachts to anchor off Townsville, the ports breakwall's protect it from most prevailing winds (only a strong northerly would get bumpy). Most go ashore inside the Breakwater marina.

Once recuperated from the rough adventure outside, it was nice to hear the howling wind tucked safely in the flat waters near civilization again. Put the pop-top up and used the bimini as a spray dodger/windbreak. Dinner always tastes good and the city shore lights were a great backdrop. The winds kept going longer than usual even at 9pm it was whistling through. Had one annoying rope tap, took a long time to find it, a loose end from the kayaks lifting handles. No mosquitos or sand-flies out here either.

Lights of Townsville


Awoke next morning to a relative calm, just a light offshore land breeze. So made the most of it and motored out early. Passed a T Colvin (American) designed steel hulled Junk rig schooner, a classic hybrid of east/west tradition and steel. A crusty solid blue water voyaging yacht, the junk rig would be easier to handle/ reef down by a small crew from the center cockpit too. They have long shoal draft keels.  In 1987 i was live-aboard cruising an Endeavour 24 and got to know the owner of a Colvin 47 junk schooner in Sydney. Larry had built her himself on NSW's North Coast, the yacht/ship had the old world charm and practicality of Slocum's spray, easily handled rig and plenty of cabin room for living aboard.

Thomas Colvin designed steel junk rigged schooner. 

The breeze was about 10 knots on the nose, while outside going back past the port. Altered course to let a few fast ferries go by, watched a ship being turned around by tugs and a bulk carrier being loaded with lead-zinc concentrates from Mount Isa mine.

Townsville Port

The Tohatsu made easy work of it, gaining the valuable upwind ground while conditions were still mild. Ross River entrance was also good and safe this early. Once inside, anchored at the sand bar, had breakfast about 8am and de-rigged the mast. The seabreeze started picking up from about 8 am.

The tide was about 2 hours on the rise, so beached Teria (for the first time ever) at the steeply sloped sandbank, so could climb straight over the bow to get ashore. The sand bank although windswept was a haven to many sea and shore birds. While the tide was still low, flocks of hundreds of small shore birds were feeding on the exposed sand-flats, not sure what the prey was but did see armies of small crabs scurrying about for their feed time too. Other birds included a lone pelican, lone egret, some seagulls and terns? The mangroves formed a large forest to the south and protect Ross River and South Townsville from the elements (even in cyclones), they are also huge nurseries for fish, prawns and other marine life as well as haven for fish, large mud crabs and the top predator - salt water crocodiles. So being wary of these, stayed on the high ground of the sand bar and away from their muddy habitat. There was some mangrove die back to seaward of the sand bar but also a little regrowth landwards of the sand bar, nature is dynamic, the whole system would move a bit year to year, maybe the unprecedented February flooding this year cause a bit of damage. (it certainly created a few new sand banks within the river estuary.)


Beached at sandbank, across from Ross haven Marine facility. 
Ross Haven harbor is relatively new being opened a few years ago about the same time as the port bridge was built across the River. The trawler fleet now resides in the new harbor, Ross Haven has a big travel-lift that can haul out large vessels like trawlers or cruising yachts, and has a hardstand there. The new harbor can also berth small ships.

The Port Bridge - 6 m clearance


Ross River - A handful of motor cruisers, Only sub-6m height, monohull vessels can get in here now.

Motored back under the bridge, past the Recreation boat Park and moored motor cruisers and docked allot easier than the first day, bit of practice makes a big difference.

Barnicle st ramp pontoon

The haul out went ok, except it wasn't fun getting the wire hooked on in the cross tide. (another case for the center-line dock ramps)

The tow-handling going home was great. The shakedown went fairly well, no calamities and brushed up on some techniques. The New Tohatsu outboard passed with flying colors and only used a couple of liters fuel. Got a better idea on how much/many provisions, water, fuel and what gear to bring too.












Saturday, October 12, 2019

Boat preparation

2 years is a long time out of the water. Equipment and supplies needed checking, finding and purchasing.

Got stuck into cleaning her up, leaves, dust, grime and some mold had to go, so got to it with the hose, bucket, sponge, dust pan and vacuum cleaner.

Set the rig up to check everything was there and functional.

Rig check

The new motor looked good but the wobbly bracket needed fixing.  A check of the bracket mount bolts involved removing them for inspection. The first bolt sheared off when the spanner turned it, long term crevice corrosion was caused by dissimilar metal use (galvanized washer on a stainless bolt! ).

Decided to beef up the backing plywood inside the locker while it was dismantled. Cut some 1/2" construction ply to fit across the available space (used a cardboard template first), re-used the smaller old 3/4" backing ply over that. Bought 4 brand new slightly longer  stainless bolts with matching stainless washers and nuts to hold it all together. Its easier to have 2 people to drill the holes through one inside and one outside. Added a small 3rd backing wood low down as the bolts were too long and more the merrier. The bracket was allot more solid than before, the flex in the thin fiberglass transom was almost eliminated.

Rigged outboard safety ropes as well, to guard against the slight chance of it falling off it mount.


Plywood backing and new bolts for outboard bracket
The bracket backing plywood, was treated with penetrating decking oil to prevent any future rot. This treatment soon escalated to other wooden parts of the boat -  gunwale timbers, hatch boards, locker floorboards.   The oil was on special at a well known large hardware chain website, 4 litres for $23, but it was hard to find.

The expired flares were replaced, they have a 3 year expiry date. The galley boxes were checked out and restocked - Tinned and dried food, stove fuel. The chemical Portable-loo was cleaned, watered and new chemical bottle bought. Water and fuel tanks were filled. The new outboard ran well in the test drum.

The new 12 volt deep cycle battery went in, the tie down clamp wouldn't fit over the top so temporary thin rope was rigged up to hold it. To re-cap, the deep cycle can discharge to around 20% capacity without damage so should be better and last longer than the previous starter battery. 75 amp hours is allot of capacity. It is re-charged by smart charger connected to a 240 volt power lead.

Upon re-connection,  nearly all "Terias" 10 watt bulb lights lit up immediately, only the stern light cast a weak glow so new bulb from the Caltex service station mini-mart fixed that cheaply. The VHF radio crackled to life and heard the coast guard weather forecast. The LED anchor light passed as did the navigation lights ( port is LED, starboard still 10 w bulb)

New deep cycle 12 volt battery - 75 amp hour capacity.
The old tail lights board was plugged to the ute's 12 volt system.  Red tail lights and brake lights, yellow turn indicators all good. It was a bit of a surprise as it uses old style 10 w bulbs which had a history of not working due to bulb terminal and connectors corrosion.   However, regular CRC (WD40) spray maintenance over the years I've owned it prevented this and kept it in working condition. Every boat needs a can of this amazing stuff aboard at all times, to spray electrical connections and working parts.




Friday, October 11, 2019

New engine - Tohasu "Sailpro" 6HP

I decided to replace my old 2 stroke Johnson 9.8hp, after the mechanic gave me a repair bill quote.

Over the last couple of years i'd looked into a possible replacement. With the help of the online forums, u-tube reviews and visits to outboard dealers the choice was whittled down.

The motor needed to be lighter weight, be suitable prop for a displacement hull, have a long shaft as it sits on the outboard bracket aft and these days be a 4-stroke (because environmental laws tightening and the Australian authorities going to ban 2-stroke sales shortly)

Bought a Tohatsu "SailPro" 6 HP. The "Sailpro" comes standard with a high pitch sailboat propeller, ultra long shaft (27") , external 12 litre fuel tank and in-built battery charger.

B & M Outboard repairs, the local Tohatsu dealer,  shipped up from Sydney. They then did the early break-in run of a few hours and some preventative maintenance before delivery.

Tohatsu Sailpro 6HP motor
The motor is a single cylinder, has an extended tiller, there are friction adjusters for the turn and throttle and it has through-prop exhaust. It is extremely quiet and environmentally friendly. They are fuel-misers so the tank can be half the size of the old 2-stroke. Being 4-stroke there is no petrol/oil mixing just plain 91 octane unleaded petrol. The motoring range of the boat is theoretically far greater now by a factor of 2-3 times for every litre of fuel.

The ultra long shaft puts the propeller deep under the water, where it can't cavitate in rough conditions.

The gear lever is in front of the engine which is easier to reach with a transom bracket mounting.

It weighs 28 kg, a reasonable weight to lift for a 60 plus year old. Also bought an outboard trolley for moving and storing it at home. (The old motor was 37 kg's, starting to get too heavy to safely lift)

To transport: When laying it down in the ute tray it needs to rest with the tiller side underneath to keep the engine oil where it should be (not a problem with 2-strokes). Always put 12 mm neoprene floor mats underneath it to protect the paint, they come in 60 cm squares which store easily behind the ute seat. Leaving any outboard on a swing bracket is not recommended for most trailer sailers.

Its clean running credentials also allow use on many inland fresh-water ways around the country, water storage dams or rivers (2-strokes banned). Lake Tinaroo, on the Atherton Tablelands behind Cairns, is now a possible destination.






Trailer Ep16 - tow ball weight

The trailer needed to be balanced with the correct "ball weight". The weight on the tow ball is critical for safe towing and needs to be around 10% of the total trailer and boat weight. (sources - RACQ, Toyota truck manual, local mechanic and online forums) Trailer boat and gear's total weight (ATM = Aggregate Trailer Mass) is 1,200kg (found on my registration certificate).

So adjusted the trailer so the ball weight to around 10% of ATM, 115 kg, by moving the main axle back and the winch post forward. Both of these fixtures are clamped on by U-bolts so can be moved as needed. Correct ball weight eliminates "hobby-horsing" of the tow car and potential jack-knifing of the whole rig when braking hard.

I measured my ball weight with bathroom scales,  protected by wood. A piece of 4x2" timber cut to length went between scales and tow cup to take the load. The tow cup was raised and lowered with the jockey wheel.

Measuring tow-ball weight
The outboard's weight isn't included as it is always removed for transporting.












Sunday, August 25, 2019

Trailer rebuild Ep15 - reassembly

Once the trailer frame was galvanized, fittings were reattached to it. I took photos before disassembly so these helped.

 First the wheel axle assembly went under, while the main frame hung from a chain block.Zinc from hot dip gets into holes and threads. Bolt holes had to be drilled and round filed out. The drawbar had threads which had to be tapped out at the engineers, who also drilled holes for bolting the new jockey wheel clamp on.The main lesson learnt is have bolt holes bigger than required and no threaded bolts or holes when building it for galvanizing.


The keel roller saddles on the frame had zinc build up on one side. So nuts in there were bevelled on one side to fit. Then keel rollers were fitted.


The side bunk yokes, keel guides and winch post bolted on. Then the brake cable gear was fitted.

The trailer was winched under the hull, and the rollers, bunks and keel guides adjusted.

Trailer almost finished

I searched everywhere for the spare wheel, no where to be found. Checked old photos before January 2019 its was under the boat on the ground. After the Townsville deluge of Jan-Feb, it was gone - must have floated off the property when the 8"-12" flash flood tore through.

Grabbed a temporary spare wheel from the shed, from one of the old caravans.

There's a few things left to do. Make a spare wheel bolt mount on the winch post and it may not ever disappear again. After pricing trailer wheel mounts ($50-$120) Picked up some old steel from Churches scrap metal (yet another business closing down, but still selling stock off).


Saturday, August 17, 2019

Trailer build Ep14 - Hot dip galvanising

Hot dip galvanizing is the best anti-corrosion treatment for steel trailers that must go into salt water. The Zinc bonds to the steel in a thick, high abrasion coating which also has electrolytic protection. even if some coating is chipped off, the surrounding zinc will protect the exposed steel patch. Trailer life should be 25 years or more.

Most of the work for hot dip galvanizing is in the preparation stage.

The galvanizing plant needs the metal to be completely bare.  Molten zinc wont stick to paint or oil. They have an acid cleaning bath which will remove light rust, galvanizing and mill scale. Also a flux bath to help the zinc bond with the steel at a molecular level. The coasting will not peel away like paint can.

Pre-galvanized steel will consume more acid, so some plants charge a bit for this.

The trailer parts are lowered into a large vat of molten zinc, usually on an angle of 30-45 degrees. There must be holes drilled or cut in corners so air trapped inside can escape and allow the molten zinc to reach every corner (airpockets also "explode" hot zinc out) also the lower holes allow the molten zinc inside to drain out.

I drilled 8-12 mm holes in every corner i could think of. Some parts can be V-notched with a grinder before welding together. Remember the part will hang at an angle. Even the open chanel beams had to have drill holes, that the foreman got me to drill out once at the plant (so always take drill bits and a cordless drill to the plant)

Removing paint etc -

The ultimate quick way would be with a huge commercial sandblaster unit but this would be expensive and messy if done on site/ or involve transport to a sandblasters factory.

Angle grinding proved to be the fastest cheapest method for open areas (after trying wet sandblasting and chemical paint stripping much slower and more costly).



Murphy's law - My old Makita 5" angle grinder decided to stop just prior to the job. So had to order in new carbon brushes....

Older makita 5" 910W angle grinder
Couldn't wait, so bought a new 5" angle grinder to keep it rolling.  It was cheaper, less powerful but allot lighter and appears to be brushless but didn't say so.


Makita 5" 710W angle grinder
Having the two different weight and power grinders was useful. The heavier grunt stuff done with the 910W one and lighter touch up work (like chamfers etc) with the 710W one, which is more like an old 4" grinder, so wearing grinding discs go onto this one too.

Alternatively a "Tercoo" rotary blaster could have been used. I belatedly ordered one in from Brisbane but the trailer job was done before it arrived.

Tercoo 3-disc rotating blaster on drill (usually cord drill for more power)

The Tercoo is a rotary mechanical sandblaster. Tungsten tips are embedded in rubber discs and "hammer" the paint and rust off steel. It was invented in Holland and is used more in Europe, so is not an off the shelf item here. It would have been good to try the Tercoo on this project, but it must be used on flat surfaces and cant hit bumps or sharp corners otherwise the tugsten tips might tear out. Here is a short video clip of the Tercoo being used to clean a yachts keel for epoxy painting. I bought my 3 wheel  "Tercoo" from McIntyre Equipment and it arrived a few days later in the post. In any case i will want to try it out on my steel wylo2 yacht hull.

Once the angle grinders had reached all the reachable bits, paint etc was still present in difficult to reach corners. I used automotive paint stripper followed by a wet sand blast for these tough spots.

The wet sandblaster unit is a Karacher K2 1600psi water blaster. It has a sandblasting attachment - one end goes in a bag of dry graded silica sand (or more expensive garnet) and a venturi effect sucks the sand out and its merged with the water jet near the nozzle.

Early wet-sandblaster test (wrong kind of sand used but it worked)

Like trying anything new It took allot of experimenting with sand at first..i tried Bunnings paving sand , it clogged the nozzle because it wasn't dry or graded. They had garnet but that was very expensive. So i went to the sandblaster supplier Burwell technologies in Garbutt, they had the correct kiln-dried crushed glass medium for my wet sandblaster (critically had to be 0.2-0.8 mm size for the Karacher) I bought 3 bags at $12 each and used 2 bags up.


Sandblasting medium bag - crushed glass (silica)

The automotive paint stripper was "poly" paint stripper - for enamel or car paint. (Bought the house paint stripper first - almost useless on enamel)

Automotive enamel paint stripper - 1 litre, solvent base with Dichloromethane 30-60%

{Sorry these are on their side, cant get them rotated..! old programs or old me!}



Small parts ready for wet sandblasting corners etc
Wet sandblasting is still a messy wet business. So did it outside away from things. wore good personal protective equipment (known as "PPE"in Australia). Offshore sailing waterproof leggings, steel capped gumboots, welding apron, welding skull cap (rip brim off old baseball cap) and a full face shield.

The wet sandblaster feed in at the nozzle also clogged up fairly regularly, which needed pulling it apart and cleaning it out. So its not a large scale machine - just for small jobs.

One of the last jobs was to punch the identification markings into the trailer frame. VIN number, Tare 200 kg and ATM 1200kg etc from the Queensland Transport registration document. added first year built 1975,  2019 for this re-build, name of boat etc.

Draw bar stripped down 
 Once the parts were stripped bare and ready i phoned the hot dip galvanising plant,  i had already  got advice and a quote from the nearest one in the Bohle about 40km away (Used to be Goerdhardts, and been running for the last 50 or more years, now Valmont Coatings) but it had suddenly closed down, out of business without warning almost overnight !! (A sign of the poor state of our industrial/ mining economy) + (even though allot of huge solar farms were being built most of the engineered parts were shipped in and not built locally..i heard)

So contacted APG Australian Professional Galvanisers (good video of process) in Stuart, south of Townville about 70kms away, they could do it.

Loaded the trailer frame onto my utes roof racks with the help of the 1/2 ton chain block, a mini crane. The main frame must weigh 120 kg's or so. (i can just roll it over sideways unassisted, but lifting up high..) The Ute felt quite top-heavy, kind of wobbly and rolly, so took it easy at 85-90km/hr and went via the 60km/hr streets through Townsville. The old ute didn't have much evasive action in her, so kept large distances from other cars when possible.

Trailer frame and parts en-route to galvanizing plant.
 At APG - It looked like a much larger operation to the visitor than the Bohle plant. They were dipping some seriously big structures in there, big trucks and forklifts going everywhere.  My job and ute looked like a kids toys by comparison but happy they could do it among the big buck work. Wayne the foreman was really helpful, and got me to drill more holes into it which took 30 minutes.




About a week or so later on Tuesday the call came in , it was done.! At a fair price too (the going rate in tsv was about A$2.50-$3 per kg) So picked it up and drove back to the boatyard via the outer ring road during quieter midday traffic. It felt like alot easier drive this time.


The galvanized trailer arrives at Boat yard

A few dings in the 10mm rod to bang out
 While unloading i tried an alternative main frame loading method. Direct on the tray with tail hanging out. Although untested i reckon the center of gravity would be so much lower and the ute far more stable like this.

Alternative frame carry position

Lifting the frame off i found and photographed all the balance points
Unloading with chain block

Frame lift balance point when upside-down

Frame lift balance point on side

Frame balance point upright

Balance point is 4 1/2" forward of frame 4. Note galvanizing hole.

Ready to roll wheels underneath
The other thing hot dip galvanizing won't ever stick to are pinprick holes slag in welds. I painted cold-galvanizing Zn paint on these imperfections while the frame was hanging from the chain block.

I persevered through this whole fabrication and galvanizing process as a pre-cursor to building my wylo2 yacht fittings - these are also hand fabricated in mild steel and will get the hot dip galvanizing treatment too.

Its given me insights into trailer design and building too. Hope to draw up plans for this "Teria Mk2" trailer and an even better "Teria Mk3" trailer using info i've gleaned along the way. The Mk 3 will be easier and faster to build (would use 3x2" RHS V-cross beams and 4x2" side beams and draw bar without bracing) It could be used by others who want to re-build their own Investigator 563 trailer. As a non-tradie and learn-as-you-go amateur with a growing family and work, the Mk2 took allot longer than first envisioned!

If you're cashed up and working allot its probably better to pay for a professionally made trailer. They would use black steel (no paint, minimal cleanup prep) know where to include the limber holes before welding, do clean welds and have it ready to galvanize before hardly any surface rust even set in. They probably have easy access to proper sandblast equipment which would make quick work of surface preparation if required.








Saturday, August 3, 2019

Trailer build Ep13 - Winch post extension, final fitting of boat on trailer

The winch post top and its bow roller were extended back about 20 cm. This was to allow the hull to sit further back on the trailer and balance better  (less down force on the trailer ball). It was previously way too heavy.

Winch post extension and bow roller

To do this: The roller jaws were cut off and an extension made from spare steel 3x2" Chanel was welded onto the winch post top (red in photo). The roller jaws were welded back onto this extension.  A support pipe was fitted and welded underneath for strength. Finally the winch was cleaned up (flood silt and hardened grease) and bolted back on.

Next the side bunks and keel guides were fitted. These are attached to the frame with 50mm inside U-bolts and custom steel plates. The long u-bolts were later cut off to fit.

First fitting of side bunks and keel guides
The side bunks were made extra long before trying the hull on for fit. In all the boat was winched on and off the trailer three times before all the bits and pieces were fitting well and cut to length.

The aft keel guide roller pins had to be modified as they were too far apart. There must be a hundred ways of doing this and many would be better than my method. It has only one direction of adjustment - vertical, the horizontal is fixed - welded. A dog-legged mini frame was needed, made from 2x2cm bar and the old roller pins were welded to this. The system fits around the aft double rollers pivot pins and everything is removable.

Trailer fitting aft view

Keel guide and rollers detail. Ute positioned for winching trailer out from under boat.


The keel rollers were adjusted to fit the keels curve. Once the bunk and keel guide posts etc were trimmed off the trailer could tilt much further without digging the back into the ground.

The tilt system. This made it easier to get the trailer under the keel. The winch wire now sits under the bow roller, safer as the boat cant ride up over it if braking hard (also have chain down). Note new brake cable fitted.
Tilt trailer in operation - removing boat. Winch wire goes forward to Car tow hitch. 8"x 4" (20 x 10 cm) hardwood beams used under keel.
The tilt hinge seems to work well in its new position for dry land boat winch on and off trailer. The keel guides and double keel rollers working well. The side bunks don't need to be lowered, they can remain in fixed position.

Underneath tilt trailer - Forward keel guide plates, brake wire and saddles with bolts.
Teria on trailer - final test fitting. 
"Teria" was much easier to winch onto the trailer than previously, the double rollers tilting to spread the load on keel base and the tilt trailer tilting to the correct angle to match multiple rollers to the keel.

The tow ball weight is better too, able to lift it by hand. Don't know the ball weight yet,  (Its not as back-breaking heavy as before)

Looking forward to getting it hot dip galvanized next.